The years 1990 mark the rise of modern perfumery with an ever-increasing number of creations. It is within this enthusiasm, initiated by the French Society of Perfumers (S.F.P), that the classification of olfactory families is born including one of the most popular:amber - oriental. A recent name for a rich and complex history dating back thousands of years.
Perfume and religion
The history of perfume is deeply intertwined with religious rituals, whether in Christianity, Buddhism, or Islam. During Antiquity, our ancestors in Mesopotamia (present-day Iraq and northeastern Syria) concocted various essential oils. These were reserved for the elite due to the use of expensive raw materials. Men wore them on their bodies during religious ceremonies. It was also common to burn resin, or kyphi (incense), to connect with the Divine and, later among the Egyptians, with the afterlife. .
Travelling through time
Deeply rooted in the culture and traditions of the East, amber – oriental perfumes have crossed time and borders. They began to be used for various purposes, notably for seduction among the oriental nobility. According to the teachings of Islam, the use of perfumes is recommended and considered a virtuous practice. People of Faith have adopted and still adopt the use of perfumes in their daily lives, whether for prayers, celebrations, or simply for well-being. Later, oriental perfumes developed in the West and in Europe, notably through exploration voyages or international trade exchanges.
The democratisation of oriental fragrances
From the 17th century onwards in Franceroyalty and the nobility of Versailles delighted in the sweet scents of oriental perfumes.
The importance of appearances at court was such that oriental perfumes were greatly appreciated for their ability to create a strong olfactory impression and therefore memorable.
Their users could find the characteristic notes of amber - oriental perfumes, including: resinous woods, for the oldest, myrrh and incense. Woody notes, such as cedar or sandalwood, animalic materials or the leather family for ambergris or musks, as well as dried plants like saffron, jasmine or Damask rose.
Perfumes and their successes
One of the first French success stories amber-oriental future« Blond Tobacco» by the House of Caron. Launched in 1919, it was the first leather fragrance for women.
But also, the famous Habanita by Pierre Molinard (1921), where the innovative use of vetiver in its feminine juice was the subject of much debate. These deliberately unisex, innovative fragrances were a breath of fresh air.
In the 1990 visit amber - oriental continued to inspire perfumers by combining the soft notes of this family with younger, more seductive notes in the creation of fragrances with fruity, floral, or even gourmand facets present in« Angel» by Thierry Mugler.
Currently, woody-oriental fragrances are still a major olfactory family in the perfume industry. Many inexpensive companies, from renowned international perfume houses to others, offer creations increasingly inspired by this family.
Also mention the perfumer Kilian Hennessy with his multiple creations inspired by the East, including « Rose Oud», « Incense Oud» or the latest creation of this back-to-school season 2023, « Smoking Hot» a smoky favourite with hints of liquorice from the fennel extracted in its juice.
2 Responses
Thank you for a very interesting read! Could you also comment on the ban of the word «oriental» in perfumery today? Do you think «ambery» is the correct term to substitute it?
I can understand the substitution of words, but it’s not just a matter of amber.
It's also the discontinuation of black musk (civet, castoreum, etc.), the limitation of spices, and so on.
I think that's a global view of the perfumery world and history: oriental isn't just Middle Eastern fragrance, but the magical creation of the 70s-80s perfume style.
Work on the «made to measure» – customized creation is what we do. The topic is to renew these styles, trying to find some elegance while fully complying with regulations, of course.
Patrice