No 1990s marked the rise of modern perfumery, with an ever-increasing number of new fragrances. It was at the heart of this craze, launched by the French Perfumers' Society (S.F.P.), that the classification of perfume families emerged, one of the most popular being that of amber-oriental perfumes. A recent designation for a rich and complex history that dates back thousands of years.
Perfume and religion
The history of perfume is closely linked to religious rituals, whether in Christianity, Buddhism, or Islam. In antiquity, our ancestors in Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq and northeastern Syria) concocted various essential oils. These were reserved for the elite due to the use of expensive raw materials. Men applied them to their bodies during religious ceremonies. It was also common to burn resin, or kyphi (incense), to commune with the Divine and, later among the Egyptians, with the afterlife.
A trip through time
Deeply rooted in Eastern culture and traditions, amber-oriental fragrances have stood the test of time and crossed borders. Originally, they were used for various purposes, including seduction among the Eastern nobility. According to Islamic teachings, the use of perfumes is recommended and considered a virtuous practice. Believers have adopted and continue to adopt the use of perfumes in their daily lives, whether for prayer, celebrations, or simply for well-being. Later, oriental perfumes spread to the West and Europe, notably through exploration voyages and international trade.
The democratization of oriental perfumes
Fascinated by novelty and, consequently, by the perfumes that appeared from the 17th century onwards France, the royalty and nobility of Versailles reveled in the sweet scents of oriental perfumes.
The importance of court appearances was such that Oriental perfumes were highly prized for their ability to create a strong olfactory impression and, consequently, memorable.
Among their components, we find the characteristic notes of amber-oriental perfumes, notably: resins—such as myrrh and incense, which are among the oldest—woody notes like cedar or sandalwood, animalic notes or leathery accords like ambergris or musk, as well as dried plants such as saffron, jasmine, or Damask rose.
Perfumes and Their Success
One of the first successful French oriental amber perfumes was « Blond Tobacco » from the House of Caron. Launched in 1919, it was the first perfume with leather notes designed for women.
Another notable example is the famous Habanita (1921) by Pierre Molinard, whose innovative use of vetiver in a women's fragrance sparked heated debate. These deliberately unisex and groundbreaking perfumes brought a breath of fresh air.
In the 1990s, amber-oriental fragrances continue to inspire perfumers by combining the sweet notes of this family with younger, more seductive notes, in order to create fragrances with fruity, floral, or gourmand facets, as evidenced by « Angel »by Thierry Mugler.
Today, amber-oriental fragrances remain a major olfactory family in the perfume industry. From mass-market brands to major international perfume houses, many companies are offering creations increasingly inspired by this family.
A special mention also goes to perfumer Kilian Hennessy for his many creations inspired by the Orient, notably « Rose Oud », « Incense Oud » and its latest creation for Fall 2023, « Smoking Hot » — A much-loved smoky fragrance with notes of licorice, achieved through the extraction of fennel in its formula.
